Welcome to Western Australia & lovely Lake Argyle

From Katherine we drove to Timber Creek, our last stop in the NT. It was a popular stop over with quite a few vans and camper trailers pulling in throughout the afternoon. We enjoyed a stroll around the park, chatting to other travelers and enjoyed the freshwater croc and kite feeding, organised by the park owners. That evening we were disappointed to find the gas hot water that we thought fixed, was not. After some trouble shooting from Andrew (thanks to You-tube), he determined that it was the thermostat that had gone (not the circuit board that we paid for in Katherine). We appreciated the support from Merv and Felicia, fellow BT owners from WA also staying in the park, who tried to trouble shoot and fix with us – but to no avail. We will order one on Monday from Swift Hot Water to be delivered home to Sydney and brought across to Perth from Scott and Suzie in July. We had a late dinner, eating up all the fresh vegetables ready for our border crossing and headed to bed.

Back on the road at 8:30am the next morning, we headed for the Western Australian border! We were very excited to be crossing into another State – this time the furthest one from home. We sailed through the check point, having the fridge and freezer checked by the border staff and gave a woo-hoo shout that we had made it into WA!!

Not far from the border crossing we took the turn-off to beautiful Lake Argyle. We had a little queue to check in to the caravan park, as we forgot to factor in the hour and a half time change in WA, hence we arrived prior to the 11:00am check in time.

After settling in, we were off to find Michael, Belle and Hamish, Mick being my cousin from Brisbane on my mum’s side. How delightful to travel halfway around the country and manage to cross paths with family – we were excited. After hugs all round, we spent the afternoon at the famous infinity pool, taking photos and having a swim in the freezing water, while we watched the sunset on the red Kimberley cliffs. We were spoilt to pretty much have the pool area to ourselves. Mick and Belle had arranged a roast dinner, with veges, since we had none after the border crossing, so we had a beautiful evening catching up over drinks and good food.

Day two and we were excited to explore the lake via the 3 hour Lake Argyle Discovery Cruise, which included lunch and a swim with 30,000 freshies!
Lake Argyle is the largest reservoir of fresh water in Australia, equivalent to 21 X Sydney Harbour. The lake was formed by damming the Ord River in 1973, which forms storage for the Ord River Irrigation Area. It was the brainchild of Kimberley Durack, grandson of Patrick Durack who staked the first pastoral claim in the East Kimberley’s back in the 1880’s. The lake is massive and we cruised for 3.5 hours, only seeing about 10% of the total area.

We all enjoyed a swim off the boat, although we were all a little concerned over the number of freshwater crocs we had seen on the banks while cruising out. Although we had to sign a waver to swim, we were assured they were far more scared of us then we of them … not so sure there. But the water was a lovely 24 degrees and we did thoroughly enjoy the experience – with a glass of bubbles while swimming with a noodle to boot!

That afternoon we shared a beautiful cheese platter and our last Sydney bottle of Logan’s sparkling whilst reflecting on our great day.

Day three & four at Lake Argyle involved swimming, hiking, bike riding to the Durack Homestead, watching the sun setting over the water and listening to great live music at the bar. Andrew & I both decided we could very easily do a few more days here – but alas we will be moving on tomorrow. The Gibb River Road is calling.

Katherine

 

We continued another 100kms up the Stuart Hwy to arrive in Katherine for our 10.00am appointment with Katherine Caravan Repairs. We had managed to book in to get the connection for the gas hot water fixed. We left the BT with Christoff and upon his recommendation went to the local café in the industrial area to get a good coffee and some toasted banana bread (both yum – so nice to have a well made Campos coffee after a lot of luke-warm dodgy lattes on the road thus far).

We then headed to Katherine Hot Springs for a dip in the thermal pools while waiting for the van. We received a call just after midday informing us that they had replaced the circuit board and all was working again. They had one remaining in stock – so we were indeed feeling very grateful. After stocking up with meat from a wholesale butcher, also found in the industrial area of Katherine, we drove on to check in at the Big 4 Breeze, just a few km’s west of the town. The park was lovely with lots of green grass and a great quiet site. Again, the park was only about one-third occupied.

Day two in Katherine, after a few loads of washing, we headed back out onto the Stuart Hwy, north for Edith Falls. Wow – so much water compared to 20 years ago! The beach area where Hayden and Bree played was several metres underwater, as were the timber steps leading you into the swimming spot. After a rather nervous dip (being a little croc conscious due to all the recent flooding) we hiked the 1.6km along the Leliyn Track to get to the Upper Pool. The walk was steep and the sun hot, but we were rewarded with beautiful views and an awesome swim under a crashing waterfall. Just divine. We completed the Leliyn Loop track back to the car park and returned to Katherine for grocery shopping and a trip to BWS.

The Woolies car park was rather manic, as was the shopping centre. As it was Thursday, and after 2:00pm, the bottle shops were open and so the town was very busy. We were extremely grateful for the strong police presence, although we still felt very wary and quite anxious when leaving the store with our trolley. We literally packed the car with the goods, jumped in and locked the doors. There had been a bit of a blow between a few Aboriginals while we were shopping and the police were dealing with it as we exited the store. We were quite in awe of the two young policewomen (who looked about 22) and commented that we wouldn’t want their jobs for quids. It would certainly be challenging (and no doubt quite scary), so hats off to them and their bravery. Many caravans were parked down the road just to shop and then they were continuing on out of town rather than staying. The next day we heard that 15 businesses had been broken into that evening. It’s such a shame for the local community as tourism is obviously suffering significantly.

Day three we travelled out to Nitmiluk National Park for the iconic Katherine Gorge tour. We had booked the 3 Gorge tour which included a swim, but unfortunately this was cancelled due to staff shortages, so we had to settle for the 2 Gorge tour. We spent a lovely morning cruising through the gorges, learning about the local Jawoyn people, the geology of the area and the habits of both fresh and saltwater crocodiles. They had captured and removed a 4 metre salty from the first gorge only two months prior – hence the reason for no longer allowing canoe tours in the first gorge.

That evening we shared a drink and stories with our site neighbours, Norm and Ally from Warrnambool Victoria.

Tomorrow we are on the move again – heading west along the Victoria Hwy – a road not travelled before by either Andrew or myself – so exciting times ahead.

Nitmiluk National Park

Beautiful Bitter Springs / Mataranka

 

We arrived at Bitter Springs around 11:00am and had no trouble securing a site for two nights. There still doesn’t appear to be that many tourists around, much to our delight, with only about one-third of the park occupied.

What a beautiful afternoon we had floating along the crystal clear, thermal pool in the Elsey National Park, only 500m walk from our van. The warm spring water rises from underground at a rate of 30.5 million litres per day and is set among beautiful palms and tropical woodlands. We spent several hours at the springs, relaxing and floating on our pool noodles, delightful!

The next morning we walked back to the springs before breakfast, for a few more trips floating in the warm current in the dappled morning sun. It was so beautifully quiet and peaceful, with only a few other people in the water (also enjoying the serenity). There were so many birds singing, it was amazing.

After a late breakfast we headed into Mataranka and out to the Mataranka Homestead and the Mataranka Thermal Pool. We enjoyed walking through the old Homestead built for the movie ‘We of the Never Never’, and then had a plunge in the thermal pool. Whilst still lovely, we far preferred the natural beauty of Bitter Springs over the Mataranka Thermal Pool – too many people for our liking, although the actual campground appeared quite empty.

We grabbed a famous Mataranka meat pie for lunch and spent the late afternoon, once again,  floating lazily in the warm thermal springs – so beautiful, it was hard to leave.

 

Daly Waters - The iconic NT pub

 

The wind continued this morning, so we aborted the plan to stay at Banka Banka Station, only two hours away, and spent the day driving further north on the Stuart Hwy, pulling into the famous Daly Waters Pub around 3:30pm that afternoon. Another big day of towing the BT -502km. Sippy needed a beer!

We nabbed an unpowered site away from the crowds and headed over to the pub for happy hour and the famous Beef & Barra BBQ. Delicious indeed! The pub was a great Aussie icon, with hundreds of bra’s strung overhead the bar, a bucking bull and a random pet goat wandering out the back in the beer garden. We loved listening to the local band and chatting to other travelers, as we ate dinner and enjoyed a few cold beers. A really fun night.

Ti-Tree Roadhouse & Karlu Karlu / Devil’s Marbles

We left Uluru at 8am for a big day of driving (639km). Back on the Lassiter Hwy, past the Kings Canyon turn off, eventually turning right onto the Stuart Hwy. We pulled in for a stretch of the legs and a coffee at the Eldunda Roadhouse and said hello to the emus, located next to the roadhouse. We fuelled up at Alice Springs and then drove all the way through to Ti-Tree (193km north of Alice). Ti-Tree Roadhouse had a caravan park behind a locked gate, so it felt reasonably safe, although upon arrival the pub was filled with local Aboriginals who were allowed access on a Friday from 12pm – 3pm. Out the back was quite grassy and we had a nice chat to our neighbours travelling in a van, who it turned out came from Cronulla! We enjoyed a good chicken schnitzel with mushroom gravy that evening at the pub.

On Saturday morning we headed off early, driving through Tennant Creek and fuelling up at the 3 Ways Roadhouse (30 minutes out of Tennant Creek). After 2 hours of driving (209km) we arrived at the sacred Aboriginal site Karlu Karlu, or better known as the Devil’s Marbles. We spent the afternoon walking amongst the gigantic boulders, watching the sun set and the colours deepening on the rocks. Very impressive. Luckily Andrew booked us a spot a few weeks earlier, as the NP was booked out, with many campers pulling in and having to move on as all sites were taken. That evening the wind howled, so the area lived up to its ‘spooky’ name. We also learnt that our hot water system was failing to ignite (perhaps as a result of too much red dirt or too many bumps across Mereenie Loop?) and therefore we had to boil the kettle that night for hot water. Perhaps it was the ‘spooky’ Devil’s Marbles at play??

Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park

Palya! Welcome to Anangu land.

There is certainly something magical about this place. Uluru is like nothing else and needs to be experienced to understand the feeling. The way the rock rises up, standing so proud and strong, with nothing but flat desert and yellow spinifex grass surrounding, is something worth travelling many km’s to see. Although this is our second visit – it still makes you gasp and say ‘wow’ when you see it, both from a distance and up close.

We have spent the past four days camping at Ayers Rock Caravan Park and visiting the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park each day – you just can’t get enough of the wonder.

Day one we arrived and headed out to view sunset over the rock. The final stages of the sun going down saw the rock glow bright orange/red – amazing. We snapped so many photos!

Day two we set our alarm (much to Andrew’s complaint…) to witness sunrise over the rock at the viewing platform. The muted colours at this time of the morning were beautiful. After breakfast we headed to the Mala Walk with an Aboriginal guide, which was really interesting. We enjoyed the stories shared and learning more about Aboriginal culture and the specialness of this place. We then proceeded to walk around the base, around a 12km walk. It was a very pleasant 23 degrees (much better than the 35 degrees of last visit).

Day three we headed out to Kata Tjuta to walk the stunning Valley of the Winds trail (7.4km). This walk is so magical and majestic – absolutely one of our favourites. We followed up with the Walpa Gorge walk, along with a stop at the lookout on the return to the campground. We then met up with Chris Shakya for a cuppa! How delightful to be able to catch up with a friend whilst on our travels – such a blessing.

That evening we went to The Desert Sails Resort for dinner – nice treat indeed which included native desserts and a few glasses of wine.

Day four was spent getting ready for the next part of our journey, which included washing, grocery shopping, filling up the water tanks and the fuel tank! We also managed to look through some galleries in the Yalara town centre, watch some locals completing beautiful dot paintings and grabbed a luke-warm coffee. Then it was time to head out to watch one more Uluru sunset, this time with Chris and Podum, which was a lot of fun.