Sunday 23 July 2023

Back to the WA Coastline - Onslow

From Millstream NP we took the gravel road option across to Pannawonica, to avoid having to trek up to Karratha and then back down the North-West Coastal Highway. From the Onslow Road turnoff it was then 80km back to the coast. On the way we passed several salt evaporation ponds, which cover 90 square kilometres across Onslow. Onslow Salt is a large industry, solar run plant operating out of Onslow. The facility processes, stores and exports 2.5 million tonnes of sodium chloride annually. As we drove into the town, we passed several huge salt mounds and when we pulled into the overflow section of the caravan park, which overlooked the ocean, there was a large ship docked at the end of the 1.3km salt jetty, receiving its delivery to be exported somewhere around the world.

We originally were planning two nights in Onslow but ended up arriving a day early – hence the need to go into the overflow section of the park for our first night, as the park was chock a block full. The following morning we moved into the main park and after putting through a few loads of washing, (after 8 nights in the Pilbara our clothes and towels had a rather red tinge to them), we went for an explore through the town. Onslow is a pretty, coastal town, which we soon discovered is known more for its fishing than swimming. The beach sand was quite brown and there were plenty of rocks exposed at low tide. There also wasn’t much to the town, with only a small grocery store, a one pump petrol station, a pub and the Beach Club Resort (which did serve great pizza’s for dinner). The ‘Paparazzi Dogs’ statue was another highlight we found along the beach front in Onslow, well positioned to face the famous Staircase to the Moon and daily sunrise over the Indian Ocean. We remember viewing a similar statue in Hong Kong many years ago, when on our way to live in China. The Paparazzi Dogs (the four Dogmen) are a world-famous social phenomenon by artists Gillie and Marc’s. The life-sized dog sculptures originally went viral in Brooklyn, with many celebrities eager to pose with them. They can now be found in many famous cities around the world – so pretty cool to be in Onslow!

We ended up really enjoying our stay in the quite coastal town, relishing the slower pace and a chance to relax. Although quite windy on both mornings, the wind dropped after lunch, enabling us to go for lovely walks along the Ian Blair Memorial Walkway from Beardon Point to Sunset Beach and then strolling back along the beach at sunset, collecting a few shells. We also spotted the green birdflower plant along the boardwalk -  a small shrub with green flowers that resembles a hummingbird in flight, that is attached by its beak to the main stalk – very cool.

Whilst in Onslow we learnt that it is actually one of the few places where you can watch the sun rise and set over the water – at Sunrise and Sunset Beaches (aptly named). The town’s War Memorial has a beautiful sculpture based on the insignia of the ADF’s Rising Sun cap badge. Cathy rose early on the final day to view the sunrise through the arch of the sculpture – very beautiful and well worth the effort. Sippy chose to stay in bed and view Cathy’s photos …..

 




















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