Another early start on the road in
order to secure a spot at the Lennard River free camp by 9:30am. As Windjana
Gorge was closed for the season, due to a salt-water crocodile inhabiting the
gorge, we were informed spots might be tight to be able to camp near Leopold Downs
Road, to access Tunnel Creek. As we pulled in several vans were vacating, so we
were lucky enough to get a great spot for the night – with firewood! Yay.
For 10 years the Bunuba people
prevented the colonisation of squatters occupying their lands through hit and
run attacks on sheep and stockman’s huts. Tunnel Creek was the site where
Jandamarra, a young Bunuba man, took refuge in 1894, hiding from police, as he
had shot and killed Police Constable Bill Richardson eased Aboriginal prisoners
and shared weapons amongst them. Eventually police caught up with Jandamarra
and shot him near Tunnel Creek.
After reading of the historical
events and the informative boards around the area’s geology, we climbed over
giant boulders to enter the creek and the darkness. Due to the recent big wet
the water flowing through the tunnel, which is usually waist high at this time
of year, was well over our heads, requiring swimming in the dark with only a
head torch for guidance. It didn’t help when amongst the bat calls, a fresh
water crocodiles beady red eyes were spotted and loud hissing filled the
cavern, I was rather freaked, while Sippy thought it was all very exciting. We
had been warned that the water was icy cold, but we didn’t find this to be the
case – in fact we enjoyed the coolness as it was 32 degrees outside.
We made it to the end, into the
daylight and found the Aboriginal art site on the left. It was then back into
tunnel, through the water, past the little croc (still there) and safely out
the other side for a towel down and a lovely picnic lunch.
Back at Lennard River that
afternoon, we strolled up to the bridge and marvelled at all the debris that
had been washed down during the wet season, high up on the banks on both sides.
We were very wary not to go close to the waters edge due to recent salt water
croc sightings in the area. The day prior a 4m salty was on show evidently.
That evening we celebrated, having
conquered the infamous Gibb River Road, with car, van and all tyres intact! We
had a lovely big campfire, made damper and went to bed a little sad as this
part of the adventure was over, but extremely blessed and happy that we got to
live Sippy’s dream.
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